1. Assess natural lash health under magnification - the most consequential decision of the appointment.
2. Cleanse and prime, then tape and map with conservative lengths throughout.
3. Isolate with extreme care; a stickie at twenty fibres is often unsalvageable.
4. Dispense a generous glue dot and refresh it every few fans without exception.
5. Dip only the base tip - anything deeper closes the fan on contact.
6. Place slowly, seating the base fully before you release.
7. Space wide; the set closes up faster than at any other density.
8. Check every completed section for stickies, comb through, and cure fully.

• Treating 20D as the default premium option - most clients get a better outcome one or two steps down. Recommend by lash, not by price tier.
• Maximum density with maximum length - the two compound at the base and the set sheds within days.
• Deep dipping - the fastest way to ruin a 20D fan. Base tip only.
• Batch stickie checks - a late-found stickie at this count is almost impossible to release cleanly.
• Standard infill scheduling - at maximum density normal shedding becomes visible gapping within a fortnight. Shorten the cycle.

• Volume - 20D
• Diameter - 0.03mm
• Curls - C, CC, D
• Lengths - 9mm-20mm
• Quantity - 480-520 fans per box
• Box contents - One curl and one length per box
• Base - Tiny light-glue-bonded base
• Material - Premium PBT synthetic silk (pro-silk)
• Finish - Semi-glossed, matte black
• Certifications - Vegan, latex-free, cruelty-free

Materials: PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) pro-silk fibre with a light cosmetic bonding agent at the base. No animal-derived fibre and no latex. Given the fibre count, confirm natural lash health at consultation and patch test new clients for adhesive sensitivity.

Is there any client for whom 20D is genuinely the right call rather than 16D?

Clients with sparse but strong natural lashes who want maximum coverage, and editorial or event work where the set is being photographed close up. For everyday wear on an average lash line, the extra fibre count buys risk rather than a visible result.

How do I stop a maximum-density set from looking like a strip?

Contour the length far more aggressively than you would at a lower density, and vary curl through the map. At 20D the eye reads the silhouette of the set entirely, so a flat map produces a solid band regardless of how good the fans are.

What is the realistic infill interval?

Two weeks for most clients. At maximum density each shed fan leaves a gap that neighbours cannot conceal, so a three or four week cycle turns an infill appointment into a partial rebuild - which the client should be told at booking, not at the till.

My retention varies within the same set - some sections hold and others do not. Why?

That pattern almost always tracks the age of the glue dot rather than the client's lashes. At 0.03 with twenty fibres, the working life of a dot is very short, and the sections lashed on an aging dot are the ones that fail.

When should I decline a 20D request?

When the natural lashes are fine, damaged or actively shedding, or when the client will not commit to the aftercare and two-week infill cycle. Offering a lower count at the same diameter keeps the booking, protects her lash line and protects your retention record.