1. Assess natural lash strength under magnification and be prepared to recommend a lower D count if the lash cannot carry 20D.
2. Cleanse and prime, then tape and map the eye with wide placement spacing planned.
3. Lift each fan by the bonded base to preserve the arc; never pick up mid-fibre.
4. Isolate meticulously - at this density a missed neighbour becomes a stubborn stickie.
5. Dispense a generous glue dot and refresh it frequently, since a thickening dot floods fine fibre.
6. Dip only the base tip, never the fan body.
7. Seat the fan flat and forward, hold until it grabs, and confirm it has not closed.
8. Comb through, check systematically for stickies, and cure fully before the client closes her eyes for long.

• Treating 20D as a default rather than a specialist set - artists sell it on request without assessing the lash, and shedding follows within a week. Qualify the client's lash strength first.
• Flooding the fan with adhesive - 0.03 fibre wicks glue instantly, and a flooded 20D fan becomes a solid spike. Dip minimally and refresh the dot often.
• Standard placement spacing - at this density and width, normal spacing produces an airless, closed set. Widen spacing and stop on coverage.
• Rushing isolation - the more fibres in play, the higher the stickie risk. Slow the isolation stage specifically.
• Running maximum length across the map - 20mm fans across a wide span exceed what almost any natural lash can carry. Restrict long lengths to a few outer-corner placements.

• Volume - 20D
• Diameter - 0.03mm
• Curls - C, D
• Lengths - 9mm-20mm
• Quantity - 500 fans per box
• Construction - Hand-built wide fan
• Material - Premium synthetic mink (PBT)
• Finish - Classic dark black
• Box contents - One size and one curl per box

Materials: Synthetic mink (PBT) fibre with cosmetic bonding at the base. No animal-derived fibre. Because this is the highest fibre count in the range, confirm the client's natural lash health at consultation and patch test new clients for adhesive sensitivity.

At what point does adding D count stop adding visible density?

Past roughly 16D on most clients the returns flatten, because the gaps between placements are already filled and additional fibre only adds mass. If a client wants more drama beyond that point, length mapping and curl choice will change the look far more than pushing to 20D.

How do I judge whether a natural lash can carry a 20D fan?

Watch the lash under magnification while you hold a fan against it - a lash that already flexes under the fan's weight before adhesive is involved will not hold it for a cycle. Diameter, length and current health all matter, and a lash carrying a long 20D fan is the most stressed lash in the set.

My 20D sets look flat rather than dramatic - what is missing?

Uniform density flattens a set; when everything is equally full, there is no contrast for the eye to read as drama. Introduce more deliberate length variation across the map, and consider mixing a lower D count into the inner third so the outer corner has something to build against.

Should I use a faster or slower adhesive at this density?

Slower, in most cases - a 20D fan takes longer to seat correctly, and a fast adhesive will grab before the base has full contact. The trade-off is more hold time per lash, which is why 20D sets take longer even with pre-built fans.

Are stickies more common at 20D, and how do I find them?

Yes, markedly - more fibres mean more chances for a neighbouring lash to be caught. Check systematically with a lash separation tool at the end of each section rather than at the end of the set, because at this density a stickie found late is almost impossible to release cleanly.