What to consider when choosing eyelash extensions for eye shape

As lash extensions experts, we all know why the consultation prior to the client’s appointment is important. It is to determine the right decisions when it comes to choosing the right look for your client. There are many things to consider in order to provide a successful eyelash extension service, and making the right decision when it comes to choosing a lash extension for your client is one of the most important tasks for a successful application. Other things also matter such as the artist's skills or the products used, but making sure to take some time to analyze your client’s features is very important.

But… How do I know what kind of look to provide to my client? 

How to choose the best lashes for different eye shapes

This is a good question but in reality, there is no correct answer. The reason for this is that every client will have different facial features, eye shapes, and different amounts of natural lashes. These will all contribute to your final decision but we’re here to help you! This is what makes these articles helpful to lash artists as we answer some of your most common questions. 

Take some time to analyze your client’s facial features and see how their proportioned. This will influence the results and your client’s overall look once the set is completed. The most important thing to take note of is the arches of the eyebrows, where the pupil is (especially the center), and the iris placement. 

Did you know what the kind of eye shape your client has will have a big impact on the way the eyelash extensions will look like? Yes, it’s true! Not every kind of shape will suit your client because everyone has different eyes. This is why it is important to take some time to analyze your client’s eyes or it could result in a not-so-flattering eyelash look and may look disproportionate. 

Here are the most popular eye shapes that we often notice amongst our clients: almond eyes, round eyes, narrow eyes and some people have monolid or hooded eyes. 

After analyzing your client’s eye shape, you should have an idea of what would look good on them or not. For the beautiful clients who have almond-shaped eyes, you’ll want to make their eyes look more elongated with longer lengths at the ends of their eyes. 

For the ones who have round eyes, you would want to have a more balanced effect for their eyes and face so you would go with a nice cat-eye. 

For those individuals who have monolid eyes or hooded lids, this can be a little tricky and intimidating for beginner and advanced lash artists alike. You’ll need to take some time to see how their natural lashes look like. This can affect the results. Checking out what type of natural curl they have will also be a factor in order to provide them with the right set. For hooded eyes, it is better to use curled eyelashes. Often, those who have monolids/hooded lids opt to have bigger eyes.  Universal mapping would be the doll eye effect. It can be suitable for every eye shape, but not always the best option depending on the effect you are trying to achieve. 

Here are some things to note in order to help you determine the right lash extensions and mapping:

The distance between 2 eyebrows

Noticing this will help you decide what kind of mapping would suit their face better. You’ll want to enhance their face by considering all of the features. Usually, to work on the mapping, note where the arch of the eyebrow is at its highest. This helps to determine where to put the appropriate lengths. Some people also choose to map their lash set based on the client's pupil. It is really up to you and what you’re more comfortable with. 

Their eye shape and eyelid

Do they have a monolid or double lid? This will also help you to choose the right curl in order to give them a beautiful look no matter what kind of eye shape they have. 

Length and curl of eyelash extensions

The natural length and curls of your client’s lashes will be important to help you choose the right length and the right curl. On LLBA’s tweezers, they all have a ruler on the back. . This is a great tool to measure the client’s natural eyelashes. To keep their lashes healthy, only use eyelash extensions that are 2 to 3 mm longer than their natural lashes. This will ensure the eyelashes won’t be too heavy. The natural curl is also important to consider because the curl of the lash extension you choose may have a negative effect on your client’s lash set. You may have a client with downward-pointing lashes so you would want to choose a curl that lifts that natural lashes.

The must-do steps to determine the right lash styles for eye shape

In order to choose the right lash style, there are a few things that should be considered: 

How full do your clients want their lashes?

Ask your client how fully do they want their lashes to be or what kind of effect they are trying to achieve. You can also ask them to show you a picture of what they want.  As a lash artist, you’ll be able to see if it is a classic set, hybrid set, volume set or mega volume set. 

Their amount of natural eyelashes 

Do they have a lot of natural lashes? Some people have a large number of eyelashes, while others have very little. For example, achieving a volume set on clients who have a lot of lashes might give them a mega volume look, while for some clients who don’t have a lot of natural lashes, a volume set might look too light on them. That’s why it is also important to let your client know that if they are showing you a picture of a lash set they really like and want to get, it may not turn out exactly like the picture. Explain to them that the number of natural lashes is definitely a factor in how full their lash set will come out to be. Keeping it realistic and honest with your client will also help you build a good rapport. 

Their natural curl

Are their natural eyelashes curled or not? Some people automatically assume the eyelashes are always curled but that isn’t true. We have really curly lashes, straight lashes, downward-facing lashes and even lashes that grow in different directions. Analyzing your client’s natural curl will help you determine the right curl to use during the application process in order to give the most effective eyelash look.. 

See more The best eyelashes for deep set eyes

Common lashes for eye shapes

Hooded eyes

[Hooded eyes]

For hooded eyes, some popular curls are CC, D and L curls. The right choice will depend on your client’s natural eyelashes. If their lashes are downward-facing, you might want to consider going for D curl as it will gently give a natural lift. If they are straight, L curl is a good curl to use and it will also help with retention since the base is flat. Lastly, if they have a slight curl, CC is a great curl to use which will give a subtle yet profound look. Take into consideration what kind of effect they want to achieve as well. 

See more The best eyelash extension for hooded eyes

Downward turned eyes

[Downward turned eyes]

When a client has downward turned eyes. the outer corners are lower than the inner corners. Avoid using the cat eye mapping for these clients, as longer lengths in the outer corners might accentuate the droopy ends. Your client may appear depressed or tired as a result. Choose a doll-eye or open-eye map instead. C or CC curl would be good for this type of eye shape especially if the client’s lashes are also downward facing. Once you put the longer lengths in the middle of the eye, it will help with lifting it.

See more The best eyelash extension for almond eyes

Round eyes

[Round eyes]

For people who have round eyes, the cat eye effect is the most popular one. Most clients want their eyes to not look as round, so having the longest lengths on the outer corner will enhance their natural lashes and give them that eyeliner “flick”. The most popular curls for this would be C curl or L curl. Those are the two curls that can give them a cat-eye look. 

See more The best eyelashes for round eyes

Doll Eyes

Doll eyes are also a great option. It is a cross between a cat eye and an open eye. If your clients don't like the cat eye look, try the doll eye mapping on them! Just make sure to take into consideration everything mentioned earlier on in this article. 

[Doll eyes]

The lash application process is quite long and tedious. To help you remember your clients’ eyelash information, LLBA Professional has digital forms offered to you, on their website for FREE! You’ll be able to note all the information needed such as the curls and lengths used, and also the mapping you did on them. This is a very useful tool for all lash artists and you won’t be stressed out about having to remember every detail of their eyelash extension set. 

See more The best eyelashes for small eyes

LLBA products that can help you optimize your lashing game

LLBA Tweezers: Like mentioned earlier, all LLBA tweezers have a ruler on the back that can help when choosing the lash length. They also have a large enough surface grip to make it easier for those with smaller or larger hands. LLBA Professional also offers three different kinds of tweezers when it comes to isolation.

[LLBA isolation tweezers]

LLBA SuperMink: If you are hand-making your own fans and want lashes that will fan out easily and are ultra-dark, you might need to consider these lashes. They are easy to peel off the strip and the lashes fan like butter and give such a beautiful dark matte look whilst still keeping it super fluffy. 

[LLBA supermink]

LLBA Promade fans: If you aren’t comfortable with making your own fans yet, LLBA promades has got you covered! The darkest promade fans on the market with a tiny base to ensure lash security and stability. They offer many different options such as: loose, handmade, XL tray, 3-in-1 and 6-in-1.

Lash tile and glue palette: this is great to keep your lash strips organized and neat during lash application

LLBA Professional flat lashes: These are a new but ongoing trend within the lash industry. These are perfect for classic and hybrid sets! They give a much more fuller look than regular classic extensions and have a flat base for a more flawless and seamless application. 

Conclusion

As we start to gain more experience and enhance our skills with each appointment we complete, the easier it will be to determine the right style, curl, and length for your next client. It can be frightening at times when you’re a beginner because you feel like you haven’t had enough experience to make those decisions. Hopefully, by the end of this article, it has given you the confidence and info you need to do just that. Everything takes practice, and with enough time, you will look back at that experience and be glad it happened! We are forever changing and learning, and this is just another learning milestone for you to conquer.